A point 1 wish to stress is that I grant every reader of this paper a licence free of all charge to make one car. In no circumstances must it be made for sale, since it is likely that this car will shortly be placed on the market.
The mudguards I recommend if you use the metal type are the model 109 from Messrs. Grose's catalogue. May I also repeat that my drawings are correct for the components I have already specified, but you will need to modify them if you are using other parts.
One or two readers tell me that they have found the members whip slightly near the front. This is due to the use of unseasoned wood, but it is not a defect which need worry them. Fortunately they will be able to get over it very easily by incorporating the cross-bracing between the axle and a point beneath the floor. My own car has not the slightest trace of whip.
I show in the sketches how to make the adapter for coupling the magneto to the drive shaft to the engine. This detail, of course: applies to the Burney and Blackburne engine and the B.T.H. magneto. If you have bought an engine with magneto attached you will ignore it. I also show drawings for the extension shaft of the kick-starter and the means of attaching it to the gearbox. A guide plate is fixed outside the body which has slots at the top. Coach screws secure this plate to the side members, and it will be necessary to slacken them off when adjusting the front chain tension, since the the guide plate must move back with shaft of the gearbox.
Exhaust Pipe and Silencer
If the engine has not an exhaust pipe and silencer attached, you should use flexible metallic tubing, which is secured to an adapter locked to the exhaust stub by means of the union nut secured to it. A sketch shows the general method employed in framing up the superstructure. It will be seen that angle plates are used.